Getting Married in Las Vegas

Getting hitched is one of the most popular things to do in Las Vegas. Just ask Britney Spears. As she rather infamously revealed, it's all too easy to get married here. See that total stranger/childhood friend standing next to you? Grab him or her and head down to the Clark County Marriage License Bureau, 201 Clark Ave. (tel. 702/761-0600; daily, including holidays, 8am-midnight), to get your license. Find a wedding chapel (not hard, as there are about 50 of them in town; they line the north end of the Strip, and most hotels have them) and tie the knot. Just like that. No blood test, no waiting period -- heck, not even an awkward dating period. Though a potentially very awkward time explaining it afterward to your mother, your manager, and the press.
Even if you have actually known your intended for some time, Las Vegas is a great place to get married. The ease is the primary attraction, but there are a number of other appealing reasons. You can have any kind of wedding you want, from a big, traditional production number to a small, intimate affair; from a spur-of-the-moment "just-the-happy-couple-in-blue-jeans" kind of thing to an "Elvis-in-a-pink-Cadillac-at-a-drive-through-window" kind of thing. The wedding chapels take care of everything; usually they'll even provide a limo to take you to the license bureau and back. Most offer all the accessories, from rings to flowers to a videotaped record of the event.
We personally know several very happy couples who opted for the Vegas route. Motivations differed, with the ease factor heading the list (though the Vegas-ness of the whole thing came in a close second), but one and all reported having great fun. Is there a more romantic way to start off your life together than in gales of laughter?
In any event, the more than 100,000 couples who yearly take advantage of all this can't be wrong. If you want to follow in the footsteps of Elvis and Priscilla (at the first incarnation of the Aladdin Hotel), Michael Jordan, Jon Bon Jovi, Richard Gere and Cindy Crawford, Pamela Anderson and ill-fated husband no. 3, Angelina Jolie and Billy Bob, and, of course, Britney and What's-His-Name, you'll want to peruse the list of the most notable wedding chapels on or near the Strip. There are many more in town, and almost all the major hotels offer chapels as well; though the latter are cleaner and less tacky than some of the Strip chapels, they do tend to be without any personality at all. One exception might be the chapel at the Excalibur Hotel, where you can dress in medieval costumes, and the lovely chapel at Bellagio, which has personal wedding coordinators and a high level of customer service, holding only 8 to 10 weddings a day -- seems like a lot, but it's nothing compared to the volume on the Strip.
With regard to decor, there isn't a radical difference between the major places -- hence, no star ratings here -- though some are decidedly spiffier and less sad than others. Attitude certainly makes a difference with several and varies radically, depending on who's working at any given time. Given how important your wedding is -- or should be -- we encourage you to give yourself time to comparison-shop and spurn anyone who doesn't seem eager enough for your business.
You can also call Las Vegas Weddings (tel. 800/488-6283; www.lasvegasweddings.com), which offers one-stop shopping for wedding services. They'll find a chapel or outdoor garden that suits your taste (not to mention such only-in-Vegas venues as the former mansions of Elvis Presley and Liberace); book you into a hotel for the honeymoon; arrange the ceremony; and provide flowers, a photographer (and/or videographer), a wedding cake, a limo, car rental, music, champagne, balloons, and a garter for the bride. Theme weddings are a specialty. They even have a New Age minister on call who can perform a Native American ceremony. And yes, you can get married by an Elvis impersonator. Las Vegas Weddings can also arrange your honeymoon stay, complete with sightseeing tours, show tickets, and meals.
Weddings can be very inexpensive in Vegas: A license is $55 and a basic service not much more. Even a full-blown shebang package -- photos, music, some flowers, video, cake, and other doodads -- will run only about $500 total. We haven't quoted any prices here because the ultimate cost depends entirely on how much you want to spend. Go cheap, and the whole thing will set you back maybe $100, including the license (maybe even somewhat less); go elaborate, and the price is still reasonable by today's wedding-price standards. Be sure to remember that there are often hidden charges, such as expected gratuities for the minister (about $25 should do; no real need to tip anyone else), and so forth. If you're penny-pinching, you'll want to keep those in mind.
Be aware that Valentine's Day is a very popular day to get married in Vegas. Some of the chapels perform as many as 80 services on February 14. But remember, you also don't have to plan ahead. Just show up, get your paperwork, close your eyes, and pick a chapel. And above all, have fun. Good luck and best wishes to you both.
Note: When we describe the chapels and say "flowers," don't think fresh (unless it's part of a description of services provided); the permanent decorations are artificial, of varying levels of quality, though usually well dusted.
An Elvis Impersonator's Top 10 Reasons to Get Married in Las Vegas
Jesse Garon has appeared in numerous Las Vegas productions as "Young Elvis." He arrives at any special event in a 1955 pink, neon-lit Cadillac, and does weddings, receptions, birthdays, conventions, grand openings, and so on. For all your Elvis impersonator needs, call tel. 702/588-8188, or visit his website at www.vegaselvis.com.
1. It's the only place in the world where Elvis will marry you, at a drive-up window, in a pink Cadillac -- 24 hours a day.
2. Chances are, you'll never forget your anniversary.
3. Where else can you treat all your guests to a wedding buffet for only 99¢ a head?
4. Four words: One helluva bachelor party.
5. On your wedding night, show your spouse that new "watch me disappear" act you learned from Siegfried & Roy.
6. Show your parents who's boss -- have your wedding your way.
7. Wedding bells ring for you everywhere you go. They just sound like slot machines.
8. You can throw dice instead of rice.
9. Easy to lie about age on the marriage certificate -- just like Joan Collins did!
10. With all the money you save, it's dice clocks for everyone!

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Attractions in Las Vegas - Free

Vegas used to be the land of freebies -- or at least, stuff so cheap it seemed free. Those days are an increasingly dim memory, but some hotels still offer free attractions designed to lure you into their casinos, where you might well then drop far more than the cost of a day ticket to Disney World. Here's a handy list of the best of the free bait, er, sights:
Bellagio Conservatory (in Bellagio) -- A totally preposterous idea, a larger-than-life greenhouse atrium, filled with seasonal living foliage in riotous colors and styles, changed with meticulous regularity. From Easter to Chinese New Year, events are celebrated with carefully designed splashes of flowers, plants, and remarkable decorations -- it's an incredible amount of labor for absolutely no immediate financial payoff. No wonder it's one of the most popular sights in Vegas. Open 24 hours.
Bellagio Fountains (outside Bellagio) -- Giant spouts of water shoot up and down and sideways, and dance their little aquatic hearts out, to pieces carefully choreographed to tunes ranging from show to Chopin. We tell people about this, they roll their eyes when they think we aren't looking, and then they go see it for themselves . . . and end up staying for several numbers. Daily every half-hour, starting early afternoon, then every 15 minutes 8pm to midnight. Closed when it's windy.
The Forum Shops Fountain Shows (in The Forum Shops at Caesars) -- The first-established of the free shows, and easily the stupidest. We love it, in theory at least, as giant "marble" Greco-Roman statues come to creaky animatronic life and deliver a largely unintelligible speech, mostly exhorting the crowds to eat, drink, and get so merry they will think nothing of dropping a bundle on the slots. Not quite so bad it's good, but one day they are going to wise up and make the thing more high-tech, and a little something special will be lost. Daily every hour, starting at 10am.
Mirage Volcano (outside The Mirage) -- The first curbside free attraction, and one of the reasons Wynn designed it so that you can't see his new mountain and lake show from the street -- because that doesn't bring guests into the property. This had paled in comparison to such things as dancing fountains and pirates, but a 2008 makeover amped up the fire, lights, sound, and effects to a much more entertaining level. Get up close to feel the heat of the "lava" blasts and the rumble of the sound system. Daily on the hour after dark until midnight.
Show in the Sky (in the Rio) -- Like TI's pirates, this formerly wholesome, if a bit weird, show has undergone a revamp to make it more sexy and adult-oriented. It's still staged on floats that move above viewers' heads, but now those floats include "bedroom" and "spa" scenes peopled with what the company calls "high energy performers of seduction." This gives you an idea of the kind of action contained therein. Prepare to try to distract your kids' attention elsewhere, though if you want a better view, grab a spot on the second floor of the village. Performed several times in the evening Thursday through Sunday.
Sirens of TI (outside Treasure Island) -- We gave it the star because it has such high production values, but man, it hurt us to do even that. See, this used to be a fun, hokey stunt show, where pirates attacked a British sailing vessel. Lusty men swashed and buckled, cannons exploded, ships sank, the pirates always won. But Vegas is not for families anymore, and to prove it, the British were removed and now the pirates are lured by lingerie-clad lovelies. Stuff happens, but no one really cares; either you like the nekkid chicks, or you are so horrified by the whole spectacle because it's so appallingly bad that plot twists don't matter much. Parents, be warned: Between the gals and their undies, and the 24-foot stark-raving-naked female figurehead on the ship right by the Strip entrance to Treasure Island, you may be in for an interesting conversation with your children. Daily at 7, 8:30, 10, and 11:30pm, weather permitting.
Wynn Conservatory (in Wynn Las Vegas) -- Yes, remarkably like the one at Bellagio, only we have to admit this one is better placed, situated just inside the door, and laid out so that you can stroll through it on your way to other parts of the hotel, as opposed to the tucked-in-a-corner Bellagio version. The floral displays change regularly, though they may reflect the striking floral mosaics on the floor below. We do hope it won't get as wacky as its Bellagio counterpart and will stick to the merely festive. Open 24 hours.
Wynn Lake of Dreams (in Wynn Las Vegas) -- This is the most peculiar of the "free" shows in several ways: It's not easily defined (not dancing fountains, not a parade in the sky), and it's not easily seen. The 150-foot-tall mountain, complete with mature trees saved from the old Desert Inn golf course, plus several waterfalls, cannot be seen in its entirety from anywhere other than hotel rooms facing west. The show itself can be watched only if you are dining in the Daniel Boulud Brasserie or SW Steakhouse, the Parasol or Chanel bars, or a small viewing platform set above those venues on the casino level. Nab a coveted spot there or else pay double (or more) digits to dine or drink while waiting for the shows. Should you bother? Maybe. Basically, twice an hour, the lake lights up with pretty colors, cued to tunes ranging from classical to Louis Armstrong for "interludes." At the top of the hour are bigger extravaganzas of weird hologram erotic-psychedelic images projected on the wall waterfall, while shapes and puppets pop out for even more weird action, with some rather adult imagery at times. Shows are every 20 minutes, from 7pm to midnight.

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Attractions in Las Vegas - Especially for Kid

Especially for Kids

Like much of the rest of the world, you may be under the impression that Las Vegas has evolved from an adults-only fantasyland into a vacation destination suitable for the entire family. The only explanation for this myth is that Las Vegas was referred to as "Disneyland for adults" by so many and for so long that the town became momentarily confused and decided it actually was Disneyland. Some of the gargantuan hotels then spent small fortunes on redecorating in an attempt to lure families, with vast quantities of junk food and a lot of hype. They now vehemently deny that any such notion ever crossed their collective minds, and, no, they don't know how that roller coaster got into the parking lot.
To put things simply, Las Vegas makes money -- lots and lots of money -- by promoting gambling, drinking, and sex. These are all fine pursuits if you happen to be an adult, but if you haven't reached the magical age of 21, you really don't count in this town. In any case, the casinos and even the Strip itself are simply too stimulating, noisy, and smoky for young kids.
Older progeny may have a tolerance for crowds and the incessant pinging of the slot machines, but they will be thoroughly annoyed with you when casino security chastises them if they so much as stop to tie their shoelaces anywhere near the gaming tables. Because you can't get from your hotel room to the parking lot without ambling through a casino, you can't reasonably expect a teenager to be in a good mood once you stagger outside. And those amusement parks and video halls that haven't yet been purged are very expensive places to park your kids for an afternoon or evening, assuming they are old enough to be left unsupervised.
Nevertheless, you may have a perfectly legitimate reason for bringing your children to Las Vegas (like Grandma was busy, or you were just stopping off on your way from somewhere else), so here are some places to take the children both on and off the Strip.
Circus Circus has ongoing circus acts throughout the day, a vast video-game-and-pinball arcade, and dozens of carnival games on its mezzanine level. Behind the hotel is the Adventuredome, detailed below.
Excalibur also offers video, carnival, and thrill cinemas.
At Caesars Palace, animated talking statues in The Forum Shops are also a kick, though smaller kids might be scared by them. Calm them down with a visit to the aquarium nearby, in the Atlantis wing of the shops.
The erupting volcano might divert kids, as the Secret Garden and Dolphin Habitat at The Mirage surely will; and the Shark Reef at Mandalay Bay is worth a look.
Consider carefully the attractions at Luxor Las Vegas: Bodies: the Exhibition may be too intense for kids, depending on their age, though others will be happily grossed out and might even learn a thing or two, while only those with interest in the high seas, disasters, the Titanic, or the eponymous movie will want to browse through Titantic: The Exhibition.
Cyber Speedway and Speed: The Ride at the Sahara is the place for thrill-ride kids to get their kicks.
Children 10 and up will love the many options for play (from high-tech to low-tech, from video wonders to actual physical activity) offered at GameWorks, as will their parents.
Of moderate interest to youngsters is the Ethel M Chocolates factory tour in Henderson, not for the educational value but for the sweets at the end. More educational is the Marjorie Barrick Museum, at UNLV, but only the reptile exhibit will really interest kids. The Clark County Heritage Museum is also a dear little throwback, and uncynical kids may enjoy wandering through the old buildings and checking out some of the dioramas.
Appropriate shows for kids include Tournament of Kings at Excalibur, Lance Burton at the Monte Carlo, Mac King at Harrah's, and Cirque du Soleil's Mystère at Treasure Island. As a general rule, early shows are less racy than late-night shows.
Beyond the city limits is Bonnie Springs Ranch/Old Nevada, with trail and stagecoach rides, a petting zoo, old-fashioned melodramas, stunt shootouts, a Nevada-themed wax museum, crafts demonstrations, and more. Lake Mead has great recreational facilities for family vacations. Finally, organized tours to the Grand Canyon and other interesting sights in southern Nevada and neighboring states can be fun family activities. Check with your hotel sightseeing desk. Kids should also be entertained by the personalized tours offered by Creative Adventures (tel. 702/893-2051; www.creativeadventuresltd.net).

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Attractions in Las Vegas

Overview

You aren't going to lack for things to do in Las Vegas. More than likely, you've come here for the gambling, which should keep you pretty busy. (We say that with some understatement.) But you can't sit at a slot machine forever. (Or maybe you can.) In any event, it shouldn't be too hard to find ways to fill your time between poker hands.

Just walking on the Strip and gazing at the gaudy, garish, absurd wonder of it all can occupy quite a lot of time. This is the number-one activity we recommend in Vegas; at night, it is a mind-boggling sight. And, of course, there are shows and plenty of other nighttime entertainment. Vegas is firmly set in such an "adult" entertainment direction that many attractions, particularly those with kid appeal, have closed, and though new, equally expensive options may come along to take their place, the emphasis right now seems to be on mature fun -- drinking, gambling, nightclubbing, and the like.

Don't forget to check out the free hotel attractions, such as Bellagio's water-fountain ballet, The Mirage's volcano, the MGM lions, and the Show in the Sky at the Rio. Oh, yeah, and the utter piece of hooey that masquerades as the pirate show at Treasure Island. You can probably give that a miss.

You could also consider using a spa at a major hotel; they seem too pricey (as high as $30 a day) to fill in for your daily gym visit if you are just going to use a few machines, but spending a couple of hours working out, sweating out Vegas toxins in the steam room, and generally pampering yourself will leave you feeling relaxed, refreshed, and ready to go all night again.

There are also plenty of out-of-town sightseeing options, such as Hoover Dam (a major tourist destination), Red Rock Canyon, and excursions to the Grand Canyon.

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Three Questions Before You Book a Room in Las Vegas

Where Should I Stay?
Your two main choices for location are the Strip and Downtown. The Strip, home to many of the most dazzling hotels and casinos in Vegas, is undeniably the winner -- especially for first-timers -- if only because of the sheer, overwhelming force of its "Vegas-ness." On the other hand, it is expensive, crowded, confining, and strangely claustrophobic. We say "strangely claustrophobic" because the hotels only look close together: In reality, they are situated on large properties, and it's a long (and often very hot or very cold) walk from one place to the next.
Contrast that with Downtown, which is nowhere near as striking but is more easily navigated on foot. Within 5 minutes, you can reach more than a dozen different casinos. The Fremont Street upgrade has turned a declining area into a very pleasant place to be, and the crowds reflect that: They seem nicer and more relaxed, and a calmer atmosphere pervades. Hotels certainly aren't state-of-the-art down there, but the rooms at many are not just clean and acceptable but rather pleasant. The establishments' smaller sizes often mean friendlier, faster service than at the big 'uns uptown, and you often can't beat the rates. There are also several other development plans afoot that might add even more aesthetic and entertainment appeal to the area. Because it's only a 5-minute ride by car between Downtown and Strip hotels (the Convention Center is more or less in between), there's no such thing as a bad location, if you have access to a car. Main Street Station even provides a free shuttle to the Strip.
For those of you without a car and who don't want to spend the $10 to $15 on a cab ride between Downtown and the Strip: Although the bus ride between Downtown and the Strip is short in distance, it can be long in time, if you get stuck in traffic. You should also be aware that the buses become quite crowded once they reach the Strip and may bypass a bus stop if no one signals to get out and the driver does not want to take on more passengers. Without a car, your ease of movement between different areas of town is limited.
Frankly, for first-timers, there probably isn't any point to staying anywhere but the Strip -- you're going to spend most (if not all) of your time there anyway. For future visits, however, we'd strongly advise you to consider Downtown.
But the Strip vs. Downtown location isn't the end of the debate; there is also the issue of where to stay on the Strip. Staying on the South Strip end means an easy trip (sometimes in the air-conditioned comfort of covered walkways or monorail) to Mandalay Bay, MGM Grand, New York-New York, Tropicana, Luxor, and Excalibur -- all virtually on one corner. Mid-Strip has CityCenter, Caesars, The Mirage, Bellagio, Treasure Island, Paris, The Venetian, The Palazzo, Bally's, the Flamingo, Harrah's, and so forth. The North Strip gets you Wynn Las Vegas, Encore, the Riviera, Sahara, and Circus Circus, though with a bit more of a walk between them. For this reason, if mobility is a problem and you want to see more than just your own hotel casino, the South and Mid-Strip locations are probably the best bets.
Reservations Service -- The Las Vegas Convention and Visitors Authority runs a room-reservations hotline (tel. 877/847-4858 or 702/892-0711; www.visitlasvegas.com) that can be helpful. They can apprise you of room availability, quote rates, contact a hotel for you, and tell you when major conventions will be in town.
A couple words of warning: Make sure they don't try to book you into a hotel you've never heard of. Try to stick with the hotels listed in this guide. Always get your information in writing, and then make some phone calls just to confirm that you really have the reservations that they say they've made for you.
What Am I Looking for in A Hotel?
If gambling is not your priority, what are you doing in Vegas? Just kidding. But not 100% kidding. Vegas's current identity as a luxury, and very adult, resort destination means there are several hotels that promise to offer you all sorts of alternatives to gambling -- lush pool areas, fabulous spas, incredible restaurants, lavish shopping. But if you look closely, much of this is Vegas bait-and-switch; the pools are often chilly (and often partially closed during nonsummer months), and it will be years before there is more foliage than concrete in these newly landscaped environments. The spas cost extra (sometimes a whole lot extra), the best restaurants can require a small bank loan, and the stores are often the kinds of places where average mortals can't even afford the oxygen. So what does that leave you with? Why, that's right -- gambling.
The other problem with these self-proclaimed luxury hotels is their size. True luxury hotels do not have 3,000 rooms -- they have a couple of hundred, at best, because you simply can't provide first-class service and Egyptian-cotton sheets in mass quantity. But while Wynn, Encore, Bellagio, The Venetian, The Palazzo and, to a lesser extent, Mandalay Bay have done their best to offer sterling service and to make their rooms more attractive and luxurious than those at other Vegas hotels, there's only so much that any place that big can do. Don't get us wrong -- these places are absolutely several steps up in quality from other large hotels, and compared to them, even the better older hotels really look shabby. But they are still sprawling, frequently noisy complexes.
Having said that, there is an additional trend in Vegas; many of the big hotels have put up new towers or additions that function as virtually separate hotels. This began with the Four Seasons, which occupies the top floors of Mandalay Bay and has its own separate entrance. Mandalay Bay has the sterling THEhotel, while The Venetian and Bellagio have separate towers. And The Venetian added The Palazzo, which is more or less The Venetian without the overt Venice elements. Each has its own check-in area and functions like a separate hotel entity. You gain some quiet (with the exception of The Palazzo, there are no casinos in these venues); in the case of THEhotel, considerable style; and, overall, at least the illusion of better service (and probably some reality of it, too, as there are fewer rooms under the special monikers). Classier grown-ups, or well-heeled families, should make these new additions first on their list.
Sadly, it's relatively easy for both you and us to make a mistake about a hotel; either of us may experience a particular room or two in a 1,000-plus-room hotel and, from there, conclude that a place is nicer than it is or more of a dump than it is. Maintenance, even in the best of hotels, can sometimes be running a bit behind, so if there is something wrong with your room, don't hesitate to ask for another. Of course, if it's one of those busy weekends, there may not be another room to be had, but at least this way you've registered a complaint, perhaps letting a busy hotel know that a certain room needs attention. And who knows? If you are gracious and persistent enough, you may be rewarded with a deal for some future stay.
If you want a true luxury-resort hotel, there are only two options: On the Strip it's the Four Seasons, and off, way off, in nearby Henderson, it's the Ritz-Carlton. In addition to that same service and level of comfort only found at a smaller hotel, both offer those extra goodies that pile on the hidden charges at other hotels -- health club, poolside cabanas, and so on -- as part of the total package, meaning that their slightly higher prices may be more of a bargain than you'd think. Actually, there is a third option: The Red Rock Resort is attracting well-heeled and high-profile tabloid types, who, presumably, know luxury. However, Red Rock charges for all the extras you get as a regular part of your stay at the Four Seasons and the Ritz.
Still, if you want peace and quiet and don't land in the tax bracket that Four Seasons/Ritz caters to, there are other, less high-profile hotels without casinos. Make certain the hotel has a pool, however, especially if you need some recreation. There is nothing as boring as a noncasino, nonpool Vegas hotel -- particularly if you have kids. For a more detailed analysis of these types of hotels, we refer you to Frommer's Portable Las Vegas for Non-Gamblers.
Casino hotels, by the way, are not always a nice place for children. It used to be that the casino was a separate section in the hotel, and children were not allowed inside. (We have fond memories of standing just outside the casino line, watching Dad put quarters in a slot machine "for us.") But in almost all the new hotels, you have to walk through the casino to get anywhere -- the lobby, the restaurants, the outside world. This makes sense from the hotel's point of view; it gives you many opportunities to stop and drop $1 or $10 into a slot. But this often long, crowded trek gets wearying for adults -- and it's far worse for kids. The rule is that kids can walk through the casinos, but they can't stop, even to gawk for a second at someone hitting a jackpot nearby. The casino officials who will immediately hustle the child away are just doing their job, but, boy, it's annoying.
So, take this (and what a hotel offers that kids might like) into consideration when booking a room. Again, please note that those gorgeous hotel pools are often cold (and again, sometimes closed altogether) and not very deep. They look like places you would want to linger, but often (from a kid's point of view) they are not. Plus, the pools close early. Hotels want you inside gambling, not outside swimming.
Finally, the thing that bothers us the most about this latest Vegas phase -- it used to be that we could differentiate between rooms, but that's becoming harder and harder. Nearly every major hotel has changed to more or less the same effect; gone is any thematic detailing and in its place is a series of disappointingly similar (if handsome and appealing) looks. Expect clean-lined wood furniture, plump white beds, and monochromes everywhere you go. All that may distinguish one from another would be size of the room or quality of furnishings.
Ultimately, though, if it's a busy time, you'll have to nab any room you can, especially if you get a price you like. How much time are you going to spend in the room anyway?
What Will I Have to Pay?
The rack rate is the maximum rate that a hotel charges for a room. It's the rate you'd get if you walked in off the street and asked for a room for the night. Hardly anybody pays these prices, however, especially in Vegas, where prices fluctuate wildly with demand and there are many ways around rack rates. Here are some tips for landing a low rate.

• Don't be afraid to bargain. Get in the habit of asking for a lower price than the first one quoted. Always ask politely whether a less-expensive room is available than the first one mentioned or whether any special rates apply to you. If you belong to the players' clubs at the hotel casino, you may be able to secure a better deal on a hotel room there. Of course, you will also be expected to spend a certain amount of time, and money, gambling there.
• Rely on a qualified professional. Certain hotels give travel agents discounts in exchange for steering business their way, so if you're shy about bargaining, an agent may be better equipped to negotiate discounts for you.
• Dial direct. When booking a room in a chain hotel (Courtyard by Marriott, for example), call the hotel's local line, as well as the toll-free number, and see where you get the best deal. A hotel makes nothing on a room that stays empty. The clerk who runs the place is more likely to know about vacancies and will often grant deep discounts in order to fill up.
• Remember the law of supply and demand. Las Vegas hotels are most crowded and therefore most expensive on weekends. So the best deals are offered midweek, when prices can drop dramatically. If possible, go then. You can also call the Las Vegas Convention and Visitors Authority (tel. 877/847-4858) to find out whether an important convention is scheduled at the time of your planned visit; if so, you might want to change your date. Remember also that planning your vacation just a week before or after official peak season can mean big savings.
• Look into group or long-stay discounts. If you come as part of a large group, you should be able to negotiate a bargain, because the hotel can then guarantee occupancy in a number of rooms. Likewise, when you're planning a long stay in town (usually from 5 days to a week), you'll usually qualify for a discount.
• Avoid excess phone charges. We can't stress this enough. Virtually every hotel in Vegas charges like crazy for phone calls. At best, it will be $1 for a local call, and sky-high prices for long distance (a 7-min. call to California set us back $35). At worst, it's all that plus an additional charge -- as much as 30¢ a minute -- for all local calls lasting more than 30 minutes.
• Beware of hidden extras. Almost all the major hotels (Four Seasons is one notable exception) charge extra for things that are always free in other destinations, such as health-club privileges. Expect to pay anywhere from $15 to $35 to use almost any hotel spa/health club. Wi-Fi also doesn't come free; usually there is a $12 to $15 charge per 24-hour period. (We've noted these charges in the listings that follow so that you won't be taken by surprise.) Some hotels even audaciously charge an additional mandatory "resort fee," which covers amenities that are commonly free elsewhere, such as pool use.
• Watch for coupons and advertised discounts. Scan ads in your local Sunday travel section, an excellent source for up-to-the-minute hotel deals. The Fun Book, available from the Las Vegas Convention and Visitors Authority , offers some discounts on lodging.
• Consider a suite. If you are traveling with your family or another couple, you can pack more people into a suite (which usually comes with a sofa bed) and thereby reduce your per-person rate. Remember that some places charge for extra guests and some don't.
• Investigate reservations services. These outfits usually work as consolidators, buying up or reserving rooms in bulk and then dealing them out to customers at a profit. Most of them offer online reservations services as well.

As far as prices go, keep in mind that our price categories are rough guidelines, at best. If you see a hotel that appeals to you, even if it seems out of your price range, give them a call anyway. They might be having a special, a slow week, or some kind of promotion, or they may just like the sound of your voice (we have no other explanation for it). You could end up with a hotel in the "expensive" category offering you a room for $60 a night. It's a toll-free call, so it's worth a try.
Consider also, even if you think from the outset that this is your one and only trip to Vegas, joining a hotel's players' club -- or possibly every hotel's players' club. This costs you nothing, and players/members often get nifty offers in the mail for heavily discounted, and occasionally even free, rooms (plus meals, shows, and so on). Players' clubs reward you with freebies and discounts when you play in their casinos, regardless of whether you win. Recently, ridiculous bargains were showing up in e-mail boxes -- such as the Bellagio for $59 a night. How much you have to play to get these deals varies, but if you are going to gamble anyway, why not make it work more to your advantage? You can sign up online, which will get you e-mail-only offers. You can do this on almost every hotel's website, and it's worth it, though it does mean scheduling your Vegas vacation to take advantage of the times the offers are valid.
We've classified all our hotel recommendations based on the average rack rate that you can expect to be quoted for a double room on an average night (not when the Consumer Electronics Show is in town, and not on New Year's Eve). Expect to pay a little less than this if you stay only Sunday to Thursday, and a little more than this if you stay Friday and Saturday. And on any given night when business is slow, you might be able to stay at a "very expensive" hotel for a "moderate" price. For that matter, if the economy continues to slow, prices are very likely to fall considerably.
Surfing for Hotels -- In addition to the online travel-booking sites Travelocity, Expedia, Orbitz, Priceline, and Hotwire, you can book hotels through Hotels.com; Quikbook (www.quikbook.com); and Travelaxe (www.travelaxe.net). HotelChatter.com is a daily webzine offering smart coverage and critiques of hotels worldwide. Go to TripAdvisor.com or HotelShark.com for helpful independent consumer reviews of hotels and resort properties.
It's a good idea to get a confirmation number and make a printout of any online booking transaction.

Read more: http://www.frommers.com/destinations/lasvegas/0013023875.html#ixzz1NrPCDPDB

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Hotel in Las Vegas

Las Vigas Hotels

If there's one thing Vegas has, it's hotels. Big hotels. And lots of them. You'll find 9 of the 10 largest hotels in the United States -- 8 of the top 10 in the world -- right here. And you'll find a whole lot of rooms: 140,000 rooms, give or take, as of this writing. Every 5 minutes, or so it seems, someone is putting up a new giant hotel or adding another 1,000 rooms to an existing one. So finding a place to stay in Vegas should be the least of your worries.
Or should it?
When a convention, a fight, or some other big event is happening -- and these things are always happening -- darn near all of those 140,000 rooms are going to be sold out. Over the course of a regular year, the occupancy rate for hotel rooms in Las Vegas is significantly higher than the nationwide average, with sold-out weekends not uncommon. A last-minute Vegas vacation can turn into a housing nightmare. If possible, plan in advance so that you can have your choice: Ancient Egypt (kinda) or Ancient Rome (kinda)? New York or New Orleans? Strip or Downtown? Luxury or economy? Vegas has all that and way too much more.
The bottom line is that with a few, mostly subtle differences, a hotel room is a hotel room is a hotel room. After you factor in location and price, there isn't that much difference between rooms, except for perhaps size and the quality of their surprisingly similar furnishings.
Hotel prices in Vegas are anything but fixed, so you will notice wild price ranges. The same room can routinely go for anywhere from $60 to $250, depending on demand. So use our price categories with a grain of salt, and don't rule out a hotel just because it's listed as "Very Expensive" -- on any given day, you might get a great deal on a room in a pricey hotel. On the negative side, some hotels start with their most typical lowest rate, adding "and up." Don't be surprised if "up" turns out to be way up. Just look online or call and ask.
Yes, if you pay more, you'll probably (but not certainly) get a "nicer" establishment and clientele to match (perhaps not so many loud drunks in the elevators). On the other hand, if a convention is in town, the drunks will be there no matter how upscale the hotel -- they'll just be wearing business suits and/or funny hats. And frankly, the big hotels, no matter how fine, have mass-produced rooms; at 3,000 rooms or more, they are the equivalent of '60s tract housing. Consequently, even in the nicest hotels, you can (and probably will) encounter plumbing noises, notice scratch marks on the walls or furniture, overhear conversations from other rooms, or be woken by the maids as they knock on the doors next to yours that don't have the DO NOT DISTURB sign up.
Coming Attractions
Part of the reason that we patiently tell people they haven't really been to Vegas, even if they have, is because if they haven't been by in the last, oh, week -- okay, let's say 2 or 3 years -- they might find several surprises awaiting them on the Strip. And if it's been more than a decade, well, forget it. All the classic old hotels are either gone (Sands, Hacienda; indeed, 2007 saw the end of the 1942 Frontier and the 1958 Stardust) or renovated virtually beyond recognition (Caesars, the Flamingo). In their place rise bigger and better and trendier resort hotels, changing the landscape and altering the welcome that Vegas visitors receive.
The new era of Vegas hotels was ushered in by The Mirage, and since then, everyone has been trying to up the ante. The year 1997 began with the opening of New York-New York, which set yet another level of stupendous excess that remained unmatched for at least 18 months.
The fall of 1998 saw the official beginning of the new era of Vegas luxury resorts (many with themes), with the opening of the opulent Bellagio, followed by Mandalay Bay and Four Seasons. And then these took a backseat (sort of) to The Venetian, which combines the jaw-dropping detail and extravagance of New York-New York (complete with canals and gondolas) with the luxury of Bellagio. Could anything top it? Possibly -- hot on its heels was Paris, themed as you can imagine, and just a few months later, the new and improved Aladdin, with its desert-fantasy decor.
The first half of this decade was less about new stuff and more about old stuff getting bigger and/or better. Sure, Caesars opened its Roman Coliseum replica, built just to house Céline Dion's new show, but other than that, no grand new hotels or major expansions arrived. One old hotel, The Maxim, was reborn as a business-swank Westin, complete with its trademark "Heavenly Beds." The rest of the action was all about expansions: The Venetian added 1,000 rooms, a new pool, a fancy restaurant, and more, in the new Venezia Tower; Mandalay Bay added more than 1,000 rooms and other goodies, in a facility they call THEhotel; Bellagio joined the fray with more than 900 new rooms and a swank new spa in a new tower; and Caesars Palace added a new 700-room tower to its empire.
The year 2005 kicked off what is an unprecedented wave of development, with the arrival of Wynn Las Vegas, the latest hotel concept from Steve Wynn, the man behind Mirage Corp., at a mere cost of $2.7 billion. (As you will see, that formerly record-breaking total is peanuts compared with what's coming up.) In 2006, we saw the addition of Red Rock Resort, designed to lure tourists away from the busy Strip, and two top-to-bottom overhauls, with the creaky old San Remo going pneumatic as the Hooters Casino Hotel (no, really) and the relatively new Aladdin got an extreme makeover to become Planet Hollywood Resort & Casino (no, really, again).
But that won't be the end of it, not hardly. The year 2007 saw the debut of yet another expansion to The Venetian, a 3,000-room resort and casino called The Palazzo, seeking to continue the parent hotel's Italian aesthetic. And 2008 brought an inaugural foray for The Donald in Vegas, with Trump International. Things really ratcheted up with the late-2008 birth of Wynn's second baby, Encore, a more than $1.7-billion, 2,000-room hotel and casino aimed at the ultraluxury market. Before the housing market imploded like an old Sin City hotel, condos seemed to be the property development trend, so if you haven't been to Vegas in a while, and you wonder what that, and that over there, and also that really big tall tower is, it's more than likely a condo building. Whether or not anyone lives there is a completely different question.
But the biggest of the big new developments, most of which will be open by the time you read this, is CityCenter, a $9-billion (yes, you read that right) complex of hotels, condos, casinos, shopping, and entertainment spread across 66 acres just north of Monte Carlo.
The next decade should see the opening of Echelon, a multibillion dollar development that is replacing the Stardust. Other plans are in various stages of development: the Elad Group, best known for their current transformation of New York's venerable Plaza Hotel into condos, bought the nearly as venerable, and notably aging, New Frontier for $1.2 billion. Of course, the plan is to promptly tear it down and spend another $3.8 billion to build a Plaza Las Vegas. The latter will have 3,500 hotel rooms plus residences, shopping, and all the rest. It's unclear whether the name Plaza will carry over into replicating the New York landmark's style and form, but that seems unlikely. Then there's Fontainebleau, based on the famous Miami hotel and belonging to a company run by former Mandalay Resorts executives. It's a 4,000-room complex going up on the old El Rancho site, across from Circus Circus. The economy has "temporarily" halted construction on all of these projects, so if you see empty twisty metal structures, that's what's going on. Anybody got a billion dollars to loan a poor hotelier?
The big story for Vegas recently has been the same as the big story for the rest of the globe, as the city was hit hard by the recession. The number of visitors to the city plunged as people found better things to do with their discretionary income, resulting in lower occupancy rates, lower room rates, and more than one major casino company declaring bankruptcy, with several others on the verge.
As with everything about the recession, it's hard to predict Vegas' future; but it is possible that when you read this, there will be all kinds of massive deals available. It's also possible that Vegas will have another run of luck, and high prices will once again rule the day. But put a very large asterisk next to anything that isn't open yet and, in fact, next to some things that already are.
Locals' Hotels
No, not hotels where locals stay -- they have that already, after all -- but so-called because it's here that locals themselves often come to eat and gamble. Give up that Strip location, and suddenly, you have a host of budget-minded options, completely satisfying casino-hotels that may not have the luxury appointments of the big Strip palaces but also don't come with the luxury price tags.
All of the following hotels are admittedly located away from the main tourist areas, but if you have a car at your disposal, you can save yourself a great deal of money by being flexible with your location. Only one of them is more than 20 minutes from the Strip, and several offer free shuttles to other sister properties.
On the southeast side of town, there are three Station Casinos properties. Sunset Station, 1301 W. Sunset Rd., Henderson (tel. 888/786-7389; www.sunsetstation.com), is probably the nicest. Rooms are simple but have high-speed Internet access (for a fee), pay-per-view movies, room service, and so on. On-site you'll find more than a dozen restaurants, including a Hooters, a bowling alley, movie theaters, bars, lounges, a nightclub, an outdoor amphitheater with regular concerts by retro (read: has-been) performers, a brewpub, and a huge casino with much lower gaming limits than the Strip ($5 blackjack tables abound!). Prices at Sunset Station are usually well below $100 a night during the week (we've seen them as low as $60), and usually not too much above $100 on the weekends.
Just down the street a bit is the Mexican pueblo-themed Fiesta Henderson, 777 W. Lake Mead Dr., Henderson (tel. 800/388-8334 or 702/558-7000; www.fiestacasino.com), where they are slowly stripping away the Mexican jungle theme to go Santa Fe (it underwent a massive expansion in 2006). It has equally basic yet comfortable lodgings, plus plenty of gaming options, a decent and dirt-cheap buffet, other restaurants, bars, movie theaters, and more. Things are even cheaper here, with rooms going for as low as $30 a night during the week. You'll also find Boulder Station, 4111 Boulder Hwy. (tel. 800/683-7777 or 702/432-7777; www.boulderstation.com), a little closer to the Strip, with more than 300 guest rooms, a 75,000-square-foot casino, movie theaters, a day-care facility, a big video-game arcade, restaurants and bars, and a concert venue called The Railhead. Rates at Boulder Station usually run from $75 to $125 a night, but rooms can be had for as little as $49 per night.
Sam's Town Hotel & Gambling Hall is listed separately in this guide, and nearby is Arizona Charlie's Boulder, 4575 Boulder Hwy. (tel. 800/632-4040 or 702/951-5900; www.arizonacharlies.com), a sister hotel to the Stratosphere, with 300 minisuites, a 37,000-square-foot casino, several restaurants, and a casino lounge. It's only a step or two above budget accommodations but still very well maintained. It has very low limits in the casino, a cheap and reliable coffee shop, and a buffet priced like buffets used to be. This place is also very inexpensive, with weekday rooms as low as $30 and weekends often as low as $50.
New to this area (as of 2008) is the Eastside Cannery, 5255 Boulder Hwy. (tel. 866/999-4899; www.eastsidecannery.com), just a stone's throw from Sam's Town but a world away in terms of amenities and style. A 16-story tower looms large with relatively upscale accommodations (sleek furnishings, flatscreens, nice bathrooms) without the upscale costs (we've seen them as low as $49 a night). A full array of restaurants, nightclubs, recreation, and gaming options complete the package.
On the north and west sides of town are four more Station properties. Texas Station, 2101 Texas Star Lane (tel. 800/654-8888 or 702/631-1000; www.texasstation.com), has a 91,000-square-foot casino, 200 rooms, movie theaters, a bowling alley, concert venues, bars, and a number of very fine restaurants, including the recommended and justly popular Austin's Steakhouse. You can often get rooms for as low as $40 a night here. Right across the street is Fiesta Rancho, 2400 N. Rancho Rd. (tel. 888/899-7770 or 702/631-7000; www.fiestacasino.com), another Station hotel, similar in concept and execution to its sister property mentioned above, only with more adobe and less jungle. In addition to the 100 rooms, they have a big casino and a regulation-size ice-skating rink, complete with equipment rentals and lessons. Prices go as low as $40 a night. Continue north on Rancho Road, and you'll run into Santa Fe Station [SS], 4949 N. Rancho Rd. (tel. 866/767-7771; www.santafestationlasvegas.com), a place that used to be a really dingy affair until Station Casinos got hold of it. They redid the place from top to bottom, including an unexpectedly spiffy casino, upgraded rooms with stylish furnishings and all the amenities you could reasonably want or need, lots of restaurants and bars, a revamped bowling alley, movie theaters, a showroom, a video-game arcade, a kids' day-care center, and more. They've recently added some new restaurants, including a highly recommended buffet. All this for rates as low as $35 a night and rarely over $100, even during the busiest times. And if you continue north -- about as far north as you can go without running into a mountain -- you'll find the new (as of 2008) Aliante Station, 7300 Aliante Parkway, North Las Vegas (tel. 877/477-7627; www.aliantecasinohotel.com), a beautifully done 200-room resort evoking an Arizona desert retreat. The rooms, while smallish, are gorgeously decorated with all of the latest amenities, and the facility boasts several restaurants, bars and lounges, a Strip-worthy pool, and a big casino all wrapped up in the warm design elements that have become the hallmark of this company's recent hotels. It's a solid 25-minute drive from the Strip without traffic, but with prices as low as $49 a night for rooms this nice, it might just be worth it.
Also on the north side of town is The Cannery, 2121 E. Craig Rd. (tel. 866/999-4899; www.cannerycasinos.com), a '40s patriotic World War II-themed hotel and casino, with a couple hundred fine and very inexpensive rooms (usually under $100 a night), a fun casino, a terrific buffet and a few other restaurants, a cool indoor/outdoor events center that hosts regular concerts and festivals, movie theaters, and more.
Finally, on the far south side of town is the new (as of 2009) M Resort, 12300 Las Vegas Blvd., Henderson (tel. 877/673-7678; www.themresort.com), a beacon for those driving in from Los Angeles, as it is the first major hotel-casino they see as they come into town. With 400 rooms, all done in a sleekly modern design scheme and a host of high-tech amenities, a 92,000-square-foot casino, a dozen restaurants, a pool and spa, and much more, the M could compete with Strip hotels in terms of the level of comfortable surroundings.

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Getting to Know Las Vegas - City Layout

There are two main areas of Las Vegas: the Strip and Downtown. For many people, that's all there is to Las Vegas. But there is actually more to the town than that: Although maybe not as glitzy and glamorous as the Strip and Downtown -- okay, definitely not -- Paradise Road and east Las Vegas are home to quite a bit of casino action; Maryland Parkway boasts mainstream and some alternative-culture shopping; and there are different restaurant options all over the city. Many of the "locals hotels" (pretty much anything with "Station" in the name, for starters), most of which are off the regular tourist track, offer cheaper gambling limits plus budget food and entertainment options. Confining yourself to the Strip and Downtown is fine for the first-time visitor, but repeat customers (and you will be) should get out there and explore. Las Vegas Boulevard South (the Strip) is the starting point for addresses; any street that crosses it starts with 1 East and 1 West at its intersection with the Strip (and goes up from there).
The Strip
The Strip is probably the most famous 4-mile stretch of highway in the nation. Officially called Las Vegas Boulevard South, it contains most of the top hotels in town and offers almost all the major showroom entertainment. First-time visitors will, and probably should, spend the bulk of their time on the Strip. If mobility is a problem, we suggest basing yourself in a South or Mid-Strip location.
For the purposes of organizing this book, we've divided the Strip into three sections. The South Strip can be roughly defined as the portion of the Strip south of Harmon Avenue, including the MGM Grand, Mandalay Bay, the Monte Carlo, New York-New York, Luxor, and many more hotels and casinos.
Mid-Strip is a long stretch of the street between Harmon Avenue and Spring Mountain Road, including Bellagio, Caesars, The Mirage, Treasure Island, Bally's, Paris Las Vegas, the Flamingo Las Vegas, and Harrah's, among other hotels and casinos.
The North Strip stretches north from Spring Mountain Road all the way to the Stratosphere Casino Hotel & Tower and includes Wynn Las Vegas, Sahara, the Riviera, and Circus Circus, to name a few of the accommodations and attractions.
East of the Strip/Convention Center
This area has grown up around the Las Vegas Convention Center. Las Vegas is one of the nation's top convention cities, attracting around 3 million conventioneers each year. The major hotel in this section is the Las Vegas Hilton, but Marriott has a big presence here and the Hard Rock Hotel is a major draw. You'll find many smaller chain/name brand hotels and motels southward, along Paradise Road. All these hotels offer proximity to the Strip.
Between the Strip & Downtown
The area between the Strip and Downtown is a seedy stretch dotted with tacky wedding chapels, bail-bond operations, pawnshops, and cheap motels. However, the area known as the Gateway District (roughly north and south of Charleston Blvd. to the west of Las Vegas Blvd. S.) keeps trying to make a name for itself as an artists' colony. Studios, small cafes, and other signs of life continue to spring up.
Downtown
Also known as "Glitter Gulch" (narrower streets make the neon seem brighter), Downtown Las Vegas, which is centered on Fremont Street, between Main and 9th streets, was the first section of the city to develop hotels and casinos. With the exception of the Golden Nugget, which looks like it belongs in Monte Carlo, this area has traditionally been more casual than the Strip. But between the Fremont Street Experience and other ongoing plans, Downtown is beginning to offer a viable alternative to the Strip. Plans are in the works for pleasant public areas and attractions, plus a narrowing of Fremont Street at 8th Street to allow for sidewalk expansion and new bars, so crowds can spill out and mingle. With prices on the Strip running amok, there is more reason than ever to focus your tourist attention and dollars down here. The area is clean, the crowds are low-key and friendly, there is a collection of great bars just east of the Experience, and the light show itself is as ostentatious as anything on the Strip. Sure, by comparison with the overblown Strip, it feels more like a small town than even old time "Vegas," but don't let that allow you to overlook this area. Las Vegas Boulevard runs all the way into Fremont Street Downtown.

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Getting to Know Las Vegas - Getting Around

Is that The Mirage or Just a Mirage? -- Maybe it's the desert that makes distances here so deceiving, or the fact that the buildings are so darned big that it makes them seem closer than they really are. But getting from point A to point B always seems to take much longer in Las Vegas than you think it will. We can't count the number of times we've said, "Here we are at The Mirage/Treasure Island/Bellagio and we have dinner/business/show tickets for Caesars/The Mirage/the Monte Carlo next door. We'll leave about 15 minutes before we need to be there." Thirty-five minutes later, after negotiating the casino crowds at our hotel, trekking through to the exit, using the moving sidewalk, tram, or our feet to get to the next stop, finding the entrance, negotiating the crowds there, and getting lost . . . we finally arrive. Barely. The moral of the story is to always give yourself extra time, even if you're just going next door.
It shouldn't be too hard to navigate your way around. But remember, between huge hotel acreage, increased and very slow traffic, and lots and lots of people -- like you -- trying to explore, getting around takes a lot longer than you might think. Heck, it can take 15 to 20 minutes to get from your room to another part of your hotel! Always allow for plenty of time to get from point A to point B.
By Car
If you plan to confine yourself to one part of the Strip (or one cruise down to it) or to Downtown, your feet will suffice. Otherwise, we highly recommend that visitors rent a car. The Strip is too spread out for walking (and Las Vegas is often too hot or too cold to make strolls pleasant), Downtown is too far away for a cheap cab ride, and public transportation is often ineffective in getting you where you want to go. Plus, return visits call for exploration in more remote parts of the city, and a car brings freedom, especially if you want to do any side trips at your own pace.
You should note that places with addresses some 60 blocks east or west of the Strip are actually less than a 10-minute drive -- provided there is no traffic.
Having advocated renting a car, we should warn you that traffic is getting worse, and it's harder and harder to get around town with any certain swiftness. A general rule of thumb is to avoid driving on the Strip whenever you can, and avoid driving at all during peak hours (8-9:30am and 4:30-6pm), especially if you have to make a show curtain.
Parking is usually a pleasure because all casino hotels offer free valet service. That means that for a mere $1 to $2 tip, you can park right at the door, though the valet usually fills up on busy nights. In those cases, you can use the gigantic self-parking lots (free on the Strip, nominal fees Downtown) that all hotels have.
If you're visiting from abroad and plan to rent a car in the United States, keep in mind that foreign driver's licenses are usually recognized in the U.S., but you may want to consider obtaining an international driver's license. Also, international visitors should note that insurance and taxes are almost never included in quoted rental car rates in the U.S. Be sure to ask your rental agency about additional fees for these. They can add a significant cost to your car rental.
Renting a Car -- National companies with outlets in Las Vegas include Alamo (tel. 877/227-8367; www.alamo.com), Avis (tel. 800/230-4898; www.avis.com), Budget (tel. 800/527-0700; www.budget.com), Dollar (tel. 800/800-3665; www.dollar.com), Enterprise (tel. 800/261-7331; www.enterprise.com), Hertz (tel. 800/654-3131; www.hertz.com), National (tel. 800/227-7368; www.nationalcar.com), Payless (tel. 800/729-5377; www.paylesscarrental.com), and Thrifty (tel. 800/847-4389; www.thrifty.com).
Car rental rates vary even more than airline fares. The price you pay depends on the size of the car, where and when you pick it up and drop it off, the length of the rental period, where and how far you drive it, whether you purchase insurance, and a host of other factors. A few key questions could save you hundreds of dollars.

• Are weekend rates lower than weekday rates? Ask if the rate is the same for pickup Friday morning, for instance, as it is for Thursday night.
• Is a weekly rate cheaper than the daily rate? Even if you need the car for only 4 days, it may be cheaper to keep it for 5.
• Does the agency assess a drop-off charge if you don't return the car to the same location where you picked it up? Is it cheaper to pick up the car at the airport than at a Downtown location?
• Are special promotional rates available? If you see an advertised price in your local newspaper, be sure to ask for that specific rate; otherwise, you may be charged the standard cost. Terms change constantly, and reservations agents are notorious for not mentioning available discounts unless you ask.
• Are discounts available for members of AARP, AAA, frequent-flier programs, or trade unions? If you belong to any of these organizations, you may be entitled to discounts of up to 30%.
• How much tax will be added to the rental bill? Local tax? State use tax?
• What is the cost of adding an additional driver's name to the contract?
• How many free miles are included in the price? Free mileage is often negotiable, depending on the length of the rental.
• How much does the rental company charge to refill your gas tank if you return with the tank less than full? Though most rental companies claim these prices are "competitive," fuel is almost always cheaper in town. Try to allow enough time to refuel the car yourself before returning it.

Some companies offer "refueling packages," in which you pay for an entire tank of gas up front. The price is usually fairly competitive with local gas prices, but you don't get credit for any gas remaining in the tank.
Many available packages include airfare, accommodations, and a rental car with unlimited mileage. Compare these prices with the cost of booking airline tickets and renting a car separately to see if such offers are good deals. Internet resources can make comparison-shopping easier.
Surfing for Rental Cars -- For booking rental cars online, the best deals are usually found at rental-car company websites, although all the major online travel agencies also offer rental-car reservations services. Priceline (www.priceline.com) and Hotwire (www.hotwire.com) work well for rental cars; the only "mystery" is which major rental company you get, and for most travelers, the difference between Hertz, Avis, and Budget is negligible. Also check out Breezenet.com, which offers domestic car-rental discounts with some of the most competitive rates around.
Demystifying Renter's Insurance -- Before you drive off in a rental car, be sure you're insured. Hasty assumptions about your personal auto insurance or a rental agency's additional coverage could end up costing you tens of thousands of dollars -- even if you are involved in an accident that was clearly the fault of another driver.
If you already hold a private auto insurance policy in the United States, you are most likely covered for loss of or damage to a rental car, and liability in case of injury to any other party involved in an accident. Be sure to find out whether you are covered in the area you are visiting, whether your policy extends to all persons who will be driving the rental car, how much liability is covered in case an outside party is injured in an accident, and whether the type of vehicle you are renting is included under your contract. (Rental trucks, sport utility vehicles, and luxury vehicles may not be covered.)
Most major credit cards provide some degree of coverage as well -- provided they were used to pay for the rental. Terms vary widely, however, so be sure to call your credit card company directly before you rent. If you don't have a private auto insurance policy, the credit card you use to rent a car may provide primary coverage if you decline the rental agency's insurance. This means that the credit card company will cover damage or theft of a rental car for the full cost of the vehicle. If you do have a private auto insurance policy, your credit card may provide secondary coverage -- which basically covers your deductible. Credit cards do not cover liability or the cost of injury to an outside party and/or damage to an outside party's vehicle. If you do not hold an insurance policy, you may want to seriously consider purchasing additional liability insurance from your rental company. Be sure to check the terms, however: Some rental agencies cover liability only if the renter is not at fault; even then, the rental company's obligation varies from state to state. Bear in mind that each credit card company has its own peculiarities; call your own credit card company for details before relying on a card for coverage.
The basic insurance coverage offered by most car rental companies, known as the Loss/Damage Waiver (LDW) or Collision Damage Waiver (CDW), can cost as much as $20 per day. The former should cover everything, including the loss of income to the rental agency, should you get in an accident (normally not covered by your own insurance policy). It usually covers the full value of the vehicle, with no deductible, if an outside party causes an accident or other damage to the rental car. You will probably be covered in case of theft as well. Liability coverage varies, but the minimum is usually at least $15,000. If you are at fault in an accident, you will be covered for the full replacement value of the car -- but not for liability. In Nevada, you can buy additional liability coverage for such cases. Most rental companies require a police report in order to process any claims you file, but your private insurer will not be notified of the accident. Check your own policies and credit cards before you shell out money on this extra insurance because you may already be covered.
Drive in Style -- If the idea of tooling around Las Vegas in a pedestrian rent-a-box just doesn't sound appealing, you can always indulge your fantasies by going with something more exotic.
Several companies in Las Vegas specialize in rentals of high-end, luxury vehicles -- the kinds of rides that normally are reserved for the rich and famous.
Rent-a-Vette Exotic Car Rentals (tel. 800/372-1981 or 702/736-2592; www.exoticcarrentalslasvegas.com) has a fleet from makers such as Lamborghini, Bentley, Ferrari, and Porsche, plus a stable of their namesake Chevrolet Corvettes. They even feature an Aston Martin Vantage, if you want to work out your inner James Bond while buzzing between casinos. Rates start at about $400 per day and go up from there -- sometimes, way up. The Lamborghini Gallardo Spyder will set you back a cool $1,445 per day, or roughly what you'll pay for 5 nights in a room at Bellagio or Wynn Las Vegas.
Las Vegas Exotic Car Rentals (tel. 866/871-1893; www.vegasexoticrentals.com) offers a similar line-up plus some big-guy toys such as Hummer H2s and Cadillac Escalades. And if you prefer Elvis over James Bond they even have some classics, such as a 1970 Cadillac Deville Convertible. You will need to supply your own Viva Las Vegas soundtrack.
By Taxi
Because cabs line up in front of all major hotels, an easy way to get around town is by taxi. Cabs charge $3.30 at the meter drop and 20¢ for each additional 1/12 mile, plus an additional $1.80 fee for being picked up at the airport and time-based penalties if you get stuck in a traffic-jam. A taxi from the airport to the Strip will run you $15 to $23, from the airport to Downtown $18 to $25, and between the Strip and Downtown about $12 to $18. You can often save money by sharing a cab with someone going to the same destination (up to five people can ride for the same fare). All this implies that you have gotten a driver who is honest; many cabbies take you the long way around, which sometimes means the shortest physical distance between two points -- right down the Strip -- but longest time on the clock and, thus, meter. Either way, you could end up paying a fare that . . . let's just say a new pair of shoes would have been a much more fun way to spend that jackpot. Your only recourse is to write down the cab number and call the company and complain. They may not respond, but you can try.
If you just can't find a taxi to hail and want to call one, try the following companies: Desert Cab Company (tel. 702/386-9102), Whittlesea Blue Cab (tel. 702/384-6111), or Yellow/Checker Cab/Star Company (tel. 702/873-2000).
By Monorail
The first leg of a high-tech monorail opened in 2004, offering riders their first and best shot of getting from one end of the Strip to the other with a minimum of frustration and expense. The 4-mile route runs from the MGM Grand, at the southern end of the Strip, to the Sahara, at the northern end, with stops at Paris/Bally's, the Flamingo, Harrah's, the Las Vegas Convention Center, and the Las Vegas Hilton along the way. Note that some of the actual physical stops are not particularly close to their namesakes, so there can be an unexpected -- and sometimes time-consuming -- additional walk from the monorail stop to wherever you intended to go. Factor in this time accordingly.
These trains can accommodate more than 200 passengers (standing and sitting) and make the end-to-end run in about 15 minutes. They operate Monday through Thursday from 7am until 2am and Friday through Sunday from 7am until 3am. Fares are $5 (!!!) for a one-way ride (whether you ride from one end to the other or just to the next station); discounts are available for round-trips and multiride/multiday passes.
Feelings are mixed about the monorail, which isn't generating the ridership as expected. A variety of behind-the-scenes issues, mostly having to do with money, may change the way it's run, extend the route, or even shut it down altogether, although that seems highly unlikely. None of this will happen before 2010, and even if it does change, it may not be in such a way that you will notice.
By Public Transportation
The no. 301 bus operated by CAT (tel. 702/CAT-RIDE [228-7433]) plies a route between the Downtown Transportation Center (at Casino Center Blvd. and Stewart Ave.) and a few miles beyond the southern end of the Strip. The fare is $1.75 for adults, 75¢ for seniors 60 and older and children 6 to 17, and free for children 5 and under. An all-day pass is $4 ($2 for seniors and children). CAT buses run 24 hours a day and are wheelchair-accessible. Exact change is required.
The Regional Transportation Commission (RTC) recently launched a service called The Deuce (tel. 702/CAT-RIDE [228-7433]; www.rtcsouthernnevada.com/transit/deuce/), a fleet of modern double-decker buses that run the length of the Strip into downtown and near the airport. A one-way ride is $3 for adults, $1.50 for seniors 60 and older and children 6 to 17, and free for children 5 and under. For $7, you get an all-day pass that lets you get on and off as many times as you like and also lets you ride all the other RTC buses all day. They even provide recorded color commentary as you sit in the mind-numbing traffic-jams that plug up the Strip most of the time. Exact change is required.
At this writing, it was unclear if the Vegas.com Arrow, classic streetcar replicas, will still be in operation. Let's hope so -- the old-fashioned, dark green vehicles are nice on the eyes and better still, air-conditioned. Like the buses, they run northward from Hacienda Avenue, stopping at all major hotels en route to the Sahara (not to the Stratosphere or Downtown), and then they go back from the Las Vegas Hilton. Trolleys run about every 15 minutes daily between 9:30am and 1:30am. The fare is $2.50 for a single one-way ticket or $6.50 for an all-day pass (free for children 4 and under). Exact change is required.
There are also a number of free transportation services, courtesy of the casinos. A free monorail connects Mandalay Bay with Luxor and Excalibur, and a free tram shuttles between The Mirage and Treasure Island. Given how far apart even neighboring hotels can be, thanks to their size, and how they seem even farther apart on really hot (and cold and windy) days, these are blessed additions.
Chopper Tom's Traffic Tips
"Chopper" Tom Hawley has watched Las Vegas grow since he was a little kid catching lizards in the desert, back in the '60s. A self-described "traffic geek," Tom reports from the helicopter and from the studio most mornings and afternoons in Las Vegas, on KVBC-TV/Channel 3. For further information on the following projects, tips, and much more, stop by Channel 3's website, at www.kvbc.com, and click "Traffic."

• Monorail Mania: This 4-mile system is a larger, faster, and more modern version of the Disney hand-me-down that used to run between the MGM and Bally's. The Las Vegas Monorail now has seven stations sprinkled from the MGM to the Sahara, with a one-way fare running $5 per person. (Discounts are available for multiple trips.) You may have heard about some less-than-glorious months for the system, but we're happy to report that as of this writing, things seem to be in fine working order. The bad news is that the monorail has probably scuttled planned extensions to Downtown and the airport, at least for now.
• People Movers Galore: Las Vegas has a greater variety of independent people-mover systems than any other city in the world, and they're a great way to get around without having to get into your car. In addition to the people movers at McCarran Airport, a variety of trains will take you from hotel to hotel. The Mandalay Bay Train whisks you from the Tropicana walkways to the Excalibur, Luxor, and Mandalay Bay hotels. Smaller shuttles operate between The Mirage and Treasure Island and between the Circus Circus Big Top and East Tower. A new train is set to connect the Monte Carlo and Bellagio with CityCenter.
• Spaghetti Bowl: The "Spaghetti Bowl" is what locals call the mess where I-15 intersects U.S. 95. The entire thing was reconstructed in 2000, but some studies indicate that it's carrying more traffic than it was designed for, so don't expect a congestion-free ride.
• U.S. 95 Widening: A 7-year project to widen the west leg of U.S. 95 (connecting to the busy northwest valley) is now complete. Though still busy in weekday rush hours, this freeway hasn't moved better in 20 years.
• Keep Your Feet off the Streets: Local engineers have been trying to improve traffic on the Strip by separating the cars from the pedestrians. The first overhead pedestrian walkways opened at Tropicana Avenue, in 1995; similar bridges were completed at Flamingo Avenue, in 2000, and Spring Mountain, in 2003. Future pedestrian bridges will be installed at Sahara and Harmon.
• Do D.I. Direct: Most visitors seem to get a lot of mileage out of the Strip and I-15. But, if you're checking out the local scene, you can bypass both of those, using Desert Inn Road, which is now one of the longest streets running from one side of the valley to the other. Plus, the 2-mile "Superarterial" section between Valley View and Paradise zips you nonstop over the interstate and under the Strip.
• Grin and Bear It: Yes, there are ways to avoid traffic jams on the Strip. But at least these traffic jams are entertaining! If you have the time and patience, go ahead and take a ride along the Strip from Hacienda to Sahara. The 4-mile drive might take an hour, but while you're grinding along, you'll see a Sphinx, an active volcano, a water ballet, and some uniquely Vegas architecture.
• Rat Pack Back Doors: Frank Sinatra Drive is a bypass road that runs parallel to the Strip from Russell Road north to Industrial. It's a great way to avoid the traffic jams and sneak in the back of hotels such as Mandalay Bay, Luxor, Monte Carlo, and Bellagio. On the other side of I-15, a bunch of high-end condo developers talked the city into rechristening a big portion of Industrial Road as Dean Martin Drive. It's still called Industrial from near Downtown to Twain, and it lets you in the back entrances to Circus Circus, Treasure Island, and others. It's a terrific bypass to the Strip and I-15 congestion.
• Beltway Bypass: The 53-mile 215 Beltway was completed in 2003, wrapping three quarters of the way around the valley, allowing easy access to the outskirts while bypassing the Resort Corridor. While the initial beltway is done, some portions still need to be built out from half-beltway and frontage road systems to a full freeway -- a process that will take until 2013.
• That Dam Bridge: In 2002, work began on a magnificent bridge over the Colorado River to handle traffic between Arizona and Nevada. It was supposed to be done in 2008, but a construction mishap has pushed that back to at least 2010. If you want to visit Hoover Dam, watch out for delays of an hour or more approaching the construction zone. The best advice is to start your trip by 8am, and especially to avoid midday on Saturdays and Sundays.
• Catch the CAT: Some locals complain about Citizens Area Transit (CAT) bus service in certain neighborhoods. But the Strip routes are frequent and well serviced, running around the clock from the South Strip Transfer Terminal to the Downtown Transportation Center in the north. The no. 301 runs every 10 minutes during busy hours, and there's also a limited-stop express bus (no. 302) every 15 minutes. Other routes go for $1.25, but the 301 and 302 are the CAT's gravy trains and cost $2. Exact change, please.

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Getting to Know Las Vegas

Located in the southernmost precincts of a wide, pancake-flat valley, Las Vegas is the biggest city in the state of Nevada. Treeless mountains form a scenic backdrop to hotels awash in neon glitter. Although it is one of the fastest-growing cities in America, for tourism purposes, the city is quite compact.

Help for Troubled Travelers -- The Travelers Aid Society is a social-service organization geared to helping travelers in difficult straits. Its services include reuniting families separated while traveling, feeding people stranded without cash, and even providing emotional counseling. If you're in trouble, seek them out. In Las Vegas, there is a Travelers Aid office at McCarran International Airport (tel. 702/798-1742) that is open daily from 8am to 5pm. Similar services are provided by Help of Southern Nevada, 953-35B E. Sahara Ave., Ste. 208, at Maryland Parkway, in the Commercial Center (tel. 702/369-4357; www.helpsonv.org). Hours are Monday through Friday 8am to 4pm.

Adapting to Las Vegas -- Las Vegas is, for the most part, a very casual town. Although there are a few restaurants that have a restrictive dress code, most of them -- and all of the showrooms, casinos, and attractions -- are pretty much come as you are. Some people still choose to dress up for their night on the town, resulting in a strange dichotomy where you might see a couple in a suit and evening gown sitting next to a couple in shorts and sandals at a show or in a nice restaurant.

Generally speaking, nice casual (slacks or nice jeans, button up shirts or blouses, a simple skirt or dress) is the best way to go in terms of what to wear, allowing you to be comfortable in just about any situation. Go too far to one extreme or the other and you're bound to feel out of place somewhere.

The only exception to this rule is the nightclubs, which often have very strict policies on what you can and cannot wear. They vary from club to club, but, as a general rule, sandals or flip-flips, shorts, and baseball caps are frowned upon. A nice pair of jeans, a clean t-shirt, and a simple pair of sneakers will get you in the door, while fancier clothes (jackets, cocktail dresses) may get you past the velvet rope a little faster.

Yes, it does get hot in Las Vegas, so you really should factor that in when you're planning your wardrobe for your trip. It's important to note that every enclosed space (casino, showroom, restaurant, nightclub, and so on) is heavily air-conditioned, so it can actually get a bit chilly once you get inside. Think light layers and you should be okay.

Las Vegas is a 24-hour town, so you can find something to eat or drink all the time; but many of the nicer restaurants are only open for dinner, with 5 or 6pm to 10 or 11pm the standard operating hours. Nightclubs usually open around 10pm and go until dawn, with the bulk of the crowds not showing up until midnight at the earliest. There are a few afternoon shows, but most are in the evenings, with start times that range from 7pm until 10:30pm, often running two shows a night. Casinos and most regular bars are open 24 hours a day.

A Funeral Director's Look Back at Vegas: No Tomorrow

Las Vegas is convention central. Orthodontists go there, as do architects, computer geeks, gynecologists, TV preachers, township clerks, postal workers, and pathologists. There's an abundance of good hotel rooms, cheap eats, and agreeable weather. Coming and going is reasonably painless. There are golf and gambling and ogling of girls -- showgirls of unspeakable beauty -- and, of course, the mountains, the desert, and the sky.

The National Funeral Directors Association advertised its 116th Annual Convention and International Exposition there in the trade press as "A Sure Bet." Debbie Reynolds was talking at the Spouse's Luncheon. Neil Sedaka was singing at the Annual Banquet. There was a golf outing, a new website, the installation of officers. I called the brother and the brother-in-law and said, "Let's get our funeral homes covered and go out to Vegas for the convention." Pat and Mike agreed. All of us are funeral directors. All of us were due for a break. Here's another coincidence: All of our wives are named Mary. The Marys all agreed to come along. They'd heard about the showgirls and high-stakes tables and figured Pat and Mike and I would need looking after. They'd heard about the great malls and the moving statues and the magic shows.

My publisher paid for my airfare and our room at the Hilton. "A Sure Bet" is what they reckoned, too. My book, The Undertaking: Life Studies from the Dismal Trade, was being featured in the Marketplace Booth at the exhibit hall. The association would be selling and I'd be signing copies for a couple of days. So there I sat, behind a stack of books, glad-handing and autographing, surrounded by caskets and hearses, cremation urns and new computer software, flower stands and funeral flags, and embalming supplies. Some things about this enterprise never change -- the basic bias toward the horizontal, the general preference for black and blue, the arcane lexicons of loss and wonder. And some are changing every day. Like booksellers and pharmacists and oncologists, many of the small firms are being overtaken by the large consolidators and conglomerates. Custom gives way to convenience. The old becomes old, then new again.

Las Vegas seems perfect for the mortuary crowd -- a metaphor for the vexed, late-century American soul that seems these days to run between extremes of fantasy and desolation. Vegas seems just such an oasis: a neon garden of earthly delights amid a moonscape of privations, abundance amid the cacti, indulgence surrounded by thirst and hunger.

Or maybe it's that we undertakers understand these games of chance -- the way life is ever asking us to ante up, the way the wager's made before the deal is dealt or dice are tossed, before we pull the lever. Some people play for nickels and dimes, some for dollars, some for keeps. But whatever we play for, we win or lose according to these stakes. We cannot, once winning is certain or losing is sure, change our bet. We cannot play for dollars, then lose in dimes; or win in cash, when we wager matchsticks. It's much the same with love and grief. They share the same arithmetic and currency. We ante up our hearts in love, we pay our losses off in grief. Baptisms, marriages, funerals -- this life's casinos -- the games we play for keeps.

Oh, we can play the odds, hedge our bets, count the cards, get a system. I think of Blaise Pascal, the 17th-century French mathematician who bet on heaven thus: "Better to believe in a God who isn't than not to believe in a God who is." Figure the math of that, the odds. Pascal's Wager is what they called it. All of us play a version of this game.

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Introduction to Las Vegas

Las Vegas was a sleepy frontier town until 1931, when gambling was legalized. The rest, as they say, is history. See the old Vegas on Fremont Street, where the world's largest mechanical sign, Vegas Vic, recalls the city of the 1940s and '50s. Afterward, embrace the flashy and new at neon-lit casinos all along The Strip. If you look hard enough, you can find some family-friendly venues here and there. If you need a dose of natural outdoor recreation, consider Lake Mead, just a 30-minute drive but a world away.

Things to Do

Let's face it: The Strip is all about gambling at the casinos, where piles of money are won or (considering the odds) lost -- and, of course, bejeweled showgirls and big-name headliners. Kids of all ages, though, will enjoy the ongoing acts at Circus Circus or the hands-on science exhibits at Lied Discovery Children's Museum. Children under 12 see glittering Cirque du Soleil for half-price and neon that lights the sky like no place else on earth for free.

Shopping

Save a little of your vacation budget to shop the big three casino arcades -- The Palazzo, the Grand Canal Shoppes at The Venetian, and The Forum Shops at Caesar's Palace. Rub shoulders with high rollers, browsing designer shoes, buttery-soft leathers and sparkling jewelry. Consider visiting the arcades sans credit card: The Grand Canal resembles St. Mark's Square, complete with gondolas, while The Forum looks like something built by the Romans themselves.

Nightlife and Entertainment

A stroll along the Strip is Las Vegas' best entertainment. Walk through the world's largest sound-and-light show beginning at Luxor and, if your strength holds up, ending at Circus Circus, where acrobats flit overhead. Along the way, view the Eiffel Tower, the Colosseum and The Mirage's erupting volcano. Cirque du Soleil presents Vegas' most spectacular stage shows, while acts from Barry Manilow to AC/DC perform all around town.

Restaurants and Dining

Las Vegas is earning praise for award-winning restaurants and celebrity chefs. Who knew that there are more than a dozen restaurants in Vegas with Michelin stars? Joël Robuchon's earned three at the MGM Grand, where French delicacies are served beneath crystal chandeliers. In a city known for its buffets, Le Village Buffet at Paris Las Vegas stands out for its better-than-average offerings. And if the glitz loses its shine, travel 20 minutes to Rosemary's Restaurant, where flavors from the Deep South, New Orleans and the Midwest draw diners.

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